2012 F150 Spark Plug Change


Hey, YouTube people I just wanted to give you a little of guidance here on the spark plug change for 2012, f-150 Boost, v6, essentially what you want to do first off to get to your spark plugs is take off your oil cap. So you can take off your plastic plenum cover I'll show you that here in a second just take that off and pull it straight up. So the plenum cover plastic plenum cover is taken off as you can see here. You have your coil packs right here.

You want to take those coil packs off. Furthermore, you can. Use an eight millimeter socket.

Eight millimeters I have a little swivel on there as well since it's, a v6 both sides, you know, this little protective cover. You need to take off as well, and we'll check out these spark plugs. Take them off. So I got all three coil packs off on the passenger side. What I had to do was right in this little area there was a zip tie I, went ahead and cut that zip tie to give me a bit little more angle for my vacuum, hose I'll, zip tie that back once I'm done my suggestion.

Is probably not to take the coil pack completely off from the actual connector just try to pull it out all the way as you can see I was pretty successful hear hear, I'm using a 5/8 spark plug socket, there's, a little rubber Gorman in there, catch the spark plug easier to pull it up have an extension on there as well I brought myself a swivel for the far back one see what these look like truck currently has 40 2500 miles on it. A little of a rough idle upon start a little of hesitation on. Acceleration, they say change them out a hundred thousand I'm reading 20,000 40,000 will just do it. Now and I also bought myself. Another air intake, fill I use a two different kind of gaps, I check, the gap setting with primarily the little round, circular gap that you can use. These are showing to be gaped at almost forty-five thousandths.

So with these SP 534 is you want to be really, really careful with the little diode there in the middle, you could probably see it I, went ahead and check the gap. I tried at 30. Mm, these said that they shipped in at 35 thousands, but I can't really get it in there that well. So I went ahead and tried 30 thousandths. And that fits in there, pretty good, so it's marginally close for what they recommend for replacement. Now you want to make sure when you remove those that that cylinder hole was cleaned before something that I like to use I use on all the spark plugs before I, put them in as a little of anti-seize lubricant comes with a little brush, just dab a.Little on there, not too much. Once you got a little on there, you can just come in here and smear a little of that anti-seize on essentially what that does be if you go and replace them again, down the road to do another little minor tune-up it'll, make it easier to take them out, and they won't seize up on you.

Some of you guys are using the 5.4 train motors, probably heard about half the spark plug breaking into the cylinder and having to get them extracted out it's terrible. These. Ones came out fairly, fairly easy. Here's.

My other plug I'll do all three smear a little of that anti-seize on there, make it look good before I, put the anti-seize on there, I'm, checking the gap I'll check the gap on all of them to see where they're at if I need to make an adjustment I'll make the appropriate adjustments, make sure that it's what that expect, but all of these so far have been coming out within their tolerance that they recommend there's a little more anti-seize, just get. That anti-seize roll it on there, you don't have to coat the whole thing just a little of it. Now I'll go to drop these in typically what I'll do is I'll put my spark plug aside of my spark plug socket.

And then I'll start it by hand. First I'll, just get that first couple threads going until I can't, turn it by hand anymore and that's to ensure that you don't cross thread that head that that plug sits in want to be mindful of what's going on there. Sometimes with these spark plug sockets it. Gets stuck in there, and you just have to wiggle it out same thing with this middle Bank.

Now they say, torque specs, if I'm not mistaken is about 13 foot pounds on the spark plug I've, never had a problem before I just hand, tighten it. What I feel is comfortable you don't want to tighten it too tight again, they're, damaging, the head I bought this truck used with 24,000 miles on if it's been a great truck love. The twin turbo just want to pant. Nugget let's, see if I can get that sock it back out. Alright, let's finish up I got a different got a different extension that was a little a more little better. Remember get these all and tighten first and then get in there and then tighten it down a little with your ratchet fairly simple. If it gets a little too tight in there, grab another extension, put it on top.

Now after you're done with that just come back in coil packs inside look good. Everything in the wall here looks good line. It back up put your 8 millimeter. Bolt back on what's that's on. Everything's fingers tight, then you want just come in and snug these back down and tighten, not too tight on older vehicles or spark plugs wires, I probably put dielectric grease in the spark plug. The spark plug wire but--.

These I won't, and I see that they were cracked. Look, pretty good shape. The passenger side is done time for the driver's side, this little rubber boot here. All you got to do is just take that off. You can put it to the side you have access to your three coil packs. Again that zip tie that I cut off earlier on the passenger side, I went ahead and put that back on, and then we'll just go and take these off again.

Same thing. Eight millimeter sockets. So driver's side, a little trickier.

You have two wires, you're going to be in your way. One is for your little vent valve here. You can see there's this little gray pan, you want to just kind of bring that forward.

And then it should come up fairly, fairly easy to get it out of the way be careful not to not. To break anything, it will rotate you don't want to go and have to spend more money on part that you can make sure it doesn't break that one comes out. And then back here, you just have this little wire. You can pinch this let's. Take it off there's, a little clip underneath pinch that off pull it bring it to the side and then pull oil pack up. And then take your plugs out here's.

The other three plugs from the driver side. Take a look at what these gaps are being set at after use again, forty. Five point zero, four, five point. Zero, four, five point, zero, four, five, and I don't like to use this round. One like I said, put the new plugs as you can see, Motor craft, I got the Motor craft here, SP 534 here's. What they look like new brand, new just come in here, check it with the feeler gauge. Those are 30,000 s, 30 and then 30 everything is coming in.

Pretty good I'll just show you that little diode again, if it'll capture here, a little die out there in the middle, we want to be really. Really there we go, you want to be really careful with that that little thing again, come back, put some anti-seize on their get a little on their roll it around again that just keeps your plug from seizing into your cylinder. So just like the passenger side, here's, the driver's side, starting my hand, I have air tools, but I would never use air tools on a situation like this now and snug and come and get this one snug. This is fairly easy. You don't have to get all crazy setting this into the.

Cylinder, again, just, just snug. Once you got that driver-side done don't, forget to put in oil packs, again, it's kind of hard to get these mixed up. If you got that in doesn't, forget about your little connector here.

And this one back here after I took off that top plastic plenum cover I, put the oil cap back on make sure nothing blows inside there and get everything nice and snug by hand, then we'll come in and tighten up. Our 8 millimeter bolts, just a couple foot-pounds by feel you don't want to crack. That once you got everything snug down and put your little rubber cover back over that, like that wire went through there set it back into place. Now before I put my cover back on I'll just come over here and start it up see how it sounds there's 40.

Mm, you got 40. Mm, 500 before I was getting about fourteen point, six. Fifteen miles to the gallon we'll see how this does feel like it's trying to relearn itself. I'll say, you got, it sits down my engine intake. I told with it 29 and a half foot camper. So I. Put some overload springs by Hell wig.

It worked out great also have the Andersen anti-sway, install the reverse camera as well 2012, f150, LT, Boost, how to change your spark plugs, give it a shot. So I, went ahead and took it around the block. I'll notice that there was better throttle. Response felt like a little more horsepower, I'll change out my air filter. Next time I do my old change, which is in a couple of thousand miles.

Well, the biggest thing is I started to know fill decrease in my fuel. Economy, I need new tires, that's coming up as well. These come with the P rated tires since I'm towing my 29 1/2 foot, camper, I'll probably end up going with the low D rating 10, ply Yokohama just came out with a nice set I'll end up getting those the other thing that I'm going to do once I get tires is I'll end up replacing all the shocks get some new KY B's under there.

Anyway. Thanks for watching.

Dated : 21-Mar-2022

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