Honda Lower Ball Joint Replacement

Here's how to replace the lower ball joints on a Honda with double wishbone front suspension, you can see how loose the front ball joints are when I apply up on the front tires. First thing we're going to do is remove the front wheels. This car has a double wishbone front suspension. So this here is your coil over suspension, your upper control arm and upper ball joint the steering knuckle and then down at the bottom here we've got the lower control arm, that's your axle going over your suspension. Fork and the lower ball joint at the bottom here to access the lower ball joint down here, we need to remove the entire steering knuckle from the vehicle to do that. We need to remove the brakes, the axle as well as the upper control arm and any brake lines that are holding onto it to remove the brake, caliper and bracket assembly, we're going to remove this 17 millimeter bolt from the top here.

And one more 17 millimeter bolts down at the bottom here, it's, very little of lubricant on these bolts, Before you remove them and then remove these two 10 millimeter bolts that hold the brake line on all right remove that. And now we can remove the brake caliper from the rotor and hang that up against the straw. We got that hung out of the way next. We need to remove the rotor screws, I'm just going to use a punch. Hammer them out, and then I can turn it up with my screwdriver, hey, remove the brake rotor to loosen, the tension from the lower controller I'm going to remove this 17 millimeter bolt from the. Suspension forks next, we need to remove the axle nut, but to do that we need to remove this dimple that holds it down I'm just going to use a flat screwdriver on top then I'm going to use an inch and a quarter socket to remove the axle nut.

Now the axis would be free if not you can give it a little tap here. Next we need to remove the cotter pin or whatever is left of it. And then we need to remove the 17 millimeter castle nut. The ball joint has a taper on it that's stuck into the lower control arm.

To remove that we're going to use a ball joint separator, which basically has a tongue here. And a bolt here that you tighten up that pushes the ball joint out of the lower control, I'm just going to position the tool here with the tongue on the bottom and the fork on the top. And then you can see as I tighten. This guide down here, the ball drum will pop up. Alright, we're going to tighten down this 24 millimeter bolt and the ball joint should pop free soda pop free. Next things you remove the upper.

Ball joint from the knuckle to do that we need to remove this cotter pin. That is one bolt here we need to remove for the ABS sensor. One trick with rusty bolt is to give them a whack.

So they loosen up and remove the ABS wire from the nut and there's. One more. Ten millimeter bolt that holds the ABS sensor to the knuckle that we need to remove all right now, we're going to remove the ABS bolt out. And we got to loosen up the sensor light tops. Alright, so it's, trying to take off the ABS sensor and.

Because so much rust, it just snapped in half next time. We should disconnect the ABS sensor from inside the engine bay that orange connector next we're going to remove the seventeen millimeter castle nut from the upper ball joint then I'm going to reinstall the nut backwards to free, the (taper) of the upper ball joint from the knuckle I'm just going to hit it with a hammer that pops it free. Okay. The next thing we need to do is remove the tie rod end from the steering knuckle do that we need to remove. Whatever's left of the cotter pin so that in some senate, rating oil, then I'm going to remove the seventeen millimeter note on the tie rod end. Alright. So here I'm going to use the ball joint separator to remove the tie rod from the knuckle it's just lost into here, and I'm going to tighten down this 24 millimeter bolt to pop it loose.

That's. Its rod is now free from the knuckle. Now, if you had to cut off your cotter, pin like mine, you're going to have to drill a new hole in here. Before you put in a new.

Cotter pin lasting holding the knuckle on is the upper Paul George we're, just going to remove the castle nut, upper control arm. You released again. We can remove the steering knuckle. You just lift it.

Both on the lower ball joint and away from the axle being careful, not to pull the axle out of its sleeve, then remove it from the lower ball trunk and that's, the knuckle free from the car here's. The steering knuckle removed from the vehicle here's, the ball joint as I move it in and out I can, actually. Feel how much play there is this car has over three hundred thousand kilometer I'm also going to remove whatever left of that broken ABS sensor. So soaked it down with some penetrating oil I'm just going to tap it out you're just trying to remove that ABS sensor it's really hard, hey. So it's, finally able to draw up the ABS sense, we're also going to need to remove this retaining ring around the driveshaft area in order to get the ball joint to come out with the press after a little of. Encouraging I can just remove that with a flat screwdriver.

One thing I learned the hard way is don't pry on this surface when you're trying to remove this retaining ring, because it damages the surface of the bearing. And now when you rotate it, the grease starts coming out. Next I'm, going to use a little of brake cleaner and clean that surface up and just use a rag. And wipe it down to press out the ball joint I'm going to be using this ball joint press, it's, basically, a giant C clamp with a bunch. Of adapters that adapt the size of the knuckle and the ball joint either the Honda specific adapters. The way this ball joint is pressed in its pressed in from the top, and it goes downward, so we're going to need to press it out this way first I'm going to remove this boot.

So we have a place to press it onto. And once that ring is removed then remove the boot like that. Now you can really see how loose this ball. Drain is there's so much play because my ball joint process, don't have the right adapter. To go on here to press out the ball joint I'm going to have to chop off the ball, stud that's, the ball stud. So here's, my setup with the C clamp I've got this adapter here that goes onto the steering knuckle like this. And then I got my C clamp that goes onto that.

And then between the C clamp, screw I'm going to push the ball joint out this way using this adapter right here, you can definitely see that the ball joint has been broken. Loose, there's, a crack going all the way around this way as well as. On the top, but my adapter here is a little too small for this ball joint, and it's, catching on the ball joint. Instead of on the knuckle it's going to pound out this guy.

Alright? So this here's what's left of the ball joint here. We have the ball stud the ball inside its housing as well as the boot in the ring clip. This here is a new ball joint it's from memo, Tech I'm going to be pressing this in using the C clamp. These here's, what the surface of the knuckle looks like inside where the POW. Wow anyway, we should be cleaning the inside of this surface here, with sandpaper, I'm just going to run a little they're adjusting off any rust, and then just clear that this embrace clear it and then apply a little of lubricant.

So that the new ball joint slides in easier. One thing you'll notice is that the OEM ball joint doesn't have a knurling on it. But the new ball joint does now in some of these ball joints, you might have to remove the boot if it's bigger than the narrowly I'm, just. Going to place this in here to put a leg press in this point, stupid clowns will fit clearly. This thingy meant for Honda's all right, so I'm finding the c-clamp a bit annoying, because you can't put it on this side because it'll crash into the knuckle here. So I've set it up in this manner, where I've got two adapters down here and no adapter at the top I'm going to try to press it in this way and the ball joint should move in this way. Okay.

So I've got the ball joint seated as you can see the ball. Joint moves nicely. And there was no damage to the boot or anything you're knurling made it all the way through. And the backing plate is now flush with the top of the Nook. So I've got my knuckle with the ball joint press in it's, all cleaned up and ready to go, make sure there's, no gunk inside here, because that can fool with your abs sensor. Okay.

So next we're going to install the knuckle onto the car we're going to thread in first lower ball joint, and then the axle. And you have to line up the axle. Once the axles lined up I'm, just going to take my upper control arm and align the upper ball joint into the knuckle and replace this castle nut. And that should stop the knuckle from going anywhere.

Okay. Next I'm going to replace the lower ball joint into the steering knuckle. Now here at the bottom before replace the castle nut for the lower ball joint I'm, just going to put a little of anti-seize on the threads, and then replace that seventeen millimeter, not I'm just going to tighten this down.

It's, no longer a seventeen it's, not a nineteen come on double attack. All right, 3/4 fits the closest I'm just going to tighten this up and make sure you align the castle nut with the hole. So the cotter pin can go X, I'm going to tighten up the upper ball joint castle nut and make sure that the hole aligns for the Cotter context, I'm going to install the tire rod into the knuckle make sure you're going to put a little of anti-seize on this guy for sure and then install it in the knuckle once it's in.

We're going to replace the nut and then tighten it up then we're going to replace the ABS sensor. If applicable then we're going to place the 10 millimeter bolt that holds the ABS line to the knuckle and I just realize that I left the ABS ring out of there and I, assemble the whole thing already to make sure you're, not like me, and you replace this ring before putting everything back together, X I'm going to replace the suspension fork if you have to remove it, then we're going to reinstall this. Pinch bolt into the suspension fork and then install the lower 17 millimeter bolts that goes to the bushing and then replace the 17 millimeter bolt for the lower suspension fork. And then with a wrench on the other side, I'm going to tighten this up and then put in the axle nut, and we're just going to tighten that up, and then using a hammer and a punch I'm just going to punch a little dimple to lock the axle not in next we're, going to install the brake rotor and replace the rotor sweet.

And then. We're going to replace the caliper bracket, then we're going to install the brake caliper then I'm going to replace the two 10 millimeter bolts that hold the brake line on don't, forget to replace the cotter pin on the upper ball. Joint I've also got some new stabilizer links there from meadow tech. I'm going to install those now all right, I've got the stabilizer link installed make sure that's nice and tight, then I'm going to install the cotter pin for the lower ball joint and use the pliers to bend that. So it doesn't come out once we make sure all the bolts are tight and everything's in we can then go ahead and install the wheel.

Finally, we're going to take the vehicle for a nice test drive and make sure the suspension has no clunks or noises. And at the vehicle tracks straight.

Dated : 14-Apr-2022

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